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According to locals the Flensburg Fjord is "the most beautiful fjord in the world". In fact, they may have a point. For example, the beaches. No less than three beaches are to be found within Flensburg's city area. Several hiking trails lead along the shore - alternating between forest and water. And the fjord offers good conditions for water sports. Historically, the protected harbour ensured prospering trades and vivid life style in Flensburg. Until the end of the 1960s, the fjord shore was also characterised by brick manufacturers. There are said to have been more than 70 brickworks in the area. The 15-kilometre-long inner fjord stretches from the tip of the Flensburg harbour to the needle of Holnis. At this point, the 28 kilometre-long outer fjord begins, as it passes into the Baltic Sea that opens up behind the Geltinger Birk.
The heyday of fishing boats and fishermen in Flensburg are over. But some boats do continue to go out. Their home is the small fishing harbour on the eastern shore of the fjord - including a mini-beach, mini-museum and public toilets. The latter are a popular photo motif because of their tongue-in-cheek maritime painting. Today, only two jetties remain of the once large boat facility. That suffices for the remaining cutters with the protruding typical red marker flags. At weekends, the fishermen inform visitors on handwritten boards about the fresh catch of the day, which they sell directly at the fishing harbour. Once a year, the Flensburg Fishing Association of 1872 invites you to the smallest harbour festival in the city - and serving fish, what else..
1.5 million litres of drinking water are stored in the "flower vase" that rises turquoise-green from the Volkspark (peoples' park). Because of its unusual shape, Flensburg's water tower is also a landmark of the city. It was put into operation in 1961 - as an addition to the old water tower on the other side of the fjord. Together, they ensure that the water pressure in the pipeline network remains constant. In addition, the water tower at Volkspark is one of the best lookouts in the city. From its publicly accessible platform at a height of around 26 metres, the view stretches far over the Danish coast and the hilly landscape of Angeln. A miniature version of the green giant decorates the watercourse of the neighbouring "Living at the Water Tower" housing estate.
Actually, it's just a sandy spot, and a rather dusty one, especially when it's dry and windy. Nevertheless, the harbour tip is a popular meeting place. It offers space for games, concerts, small markets, even an ice rink. Anglers stand patiently on the shore, and in summer, many people sit on the steps leading to the water, watch the ducks sunbathing and enjoy the view of the harbour and the fjord. The little ones let off steam in the neighbouring playground. With so much maritime surrounding, a fish sandwich is a must. This and more is available from the restaurants that have settled around the Fördespitze and, by the way, offer a sea view.
The tower of St. Jürgen's Church dominates the skyline of the east bank. The church, built in 1904-1907, was named after the St. Jürgen Hospital, a hospital for lepers and plague sufferers that had stood on the same site since the Middle Ages. The brick church is one of the city's cultural monuments. As in many churches on the coast, two ship models hang from the ceiling. Actually, besides that, the late Gothic vaulted ceiling is particularly eye-catching. However, all of this was in danger when the church had to close in 2012: sponge in the walls and a dilapidated statics. Only after three years and thanks to committed donors could the congregation celebrate the reopening of their church in 2015. The vault was also extensively renovated.
The Flatzbygang was named after a shipbuilder's family, the Ravnsgang presumably after a fish smoker's family, and the Seemannsgang (Seamen's Alley) goes without saying. All lead down to the fjord. In short, this was the seafarers' quarters. The area around the lower St. Jürgen-Straße is today also known as the Gänge- or Kapitänsviertel. The low houses along the cobblestone street were first inhabited by fishermen, then richer sailors, and finally captains. The quarter is particularly worth seeing in summer when the hollyhocks are in bloom and adorn almost every house wall here. If you look closely, you will also discover a hamster on one of the walls - a part of affectionate street art by an anonymous Flensburg artist.
Guided tour through the captains quarter
Face the music and meet the arts! In 1894, Flensburg’s independent municipal theatre opened on corner of Rathausstraße and Nordergraben. Finally, a suitable, dedicated space for Flensburg's theatre enthusiasts was found, whose love of theatre can be traced all the way back to the year 1450. Previously, plays were performed partly in the old town hall and partly in a predecessor building to the current theatre. When the Schleswig-Holsteinische Landestheater (state theatre) and Sinfonieorchester GmbH (symphony orchestra) were founded in the mid-1970s, the municipal theatre finally became the venue for the state theatre as well. In addition to drama, musical theatre and young theatre, the programme includes ballet performances, concerts, and puppet theatre. The theatre also features „Kleine Bühne“ - a smaller stage in the same building at Nordergraben 12.
For a long time, the district of Jürgensby was located outside the gates of the city. It only became a part of Flensburg city in 1900. Due to its location on a slope on the eastern shore of the fjord, it is often referred to as being “on top". The district's best-known neighbourhood is called St. Jürgen, and it contains a church of the same name, consecrated in 1907. Also well known and well loved is the Kapitänsviertel (Captains’ Quarters), located in the direct vicinity of the fjord. After becoming part of the municipality, even the higher areas of the district were developed residentially. Quite many of the old villas still exist today – and from here, one has the best view over the fjord. Aerial photographs from 1912 also show extensive railway tracks that were running along the shore at the time. Among other things, they served as the "Kieler Bahnhof” (Kiel Railway Station) - the starting point of a direct connection between Flensburg and Kiel. Aside St Jürgen's Church, the Goethe School is one of the district's most prominent buildings. And let us not forget this special little theatre venue called “Pilkentafel”, a well-known alternative theatre ensemble, located in a spot that used to be a pub for centuries - and is now home to the theatre of the same name.
Seen from above, with a little imagination, Flensburg's pedestrian zone is reminiscent of the skeleton of a fish: at the centre are three main streets that merge into one another. Off to the sides many small former merchants' and craftsmen's courtyards are to be found. The pedestrian zone starts at Rote Strasse (Red Street) – known for its small speciality shops and galleries, therefore also called the city’s “jewel box”. Following the Südermarkt, it continues through two main shopping streets, Holm and Große Straße, with their larger shops and numerous restaurants. Smaller shops and several restaurants have also settled in many of the former, lovingly restored merchants' and craftsmen's courtyard buildings. The Holm was closed to motorised traffic as early as in 1968, making Flensburg's pedestrian zone one of the first and oldest in Germany. Following into Norderstraße, which is not (yet) entirely free from motor traffic, we enter the level of St Mary's Church. Known to be the hippest part of the city centre, partly due to its remarkable hanging shoes ("shoefiti") and multiple cultural initiatives and coffee bars, one may still count the “Northern Street” as being part of the "pedestrian zone".
The building complex known today under the name Margarethenhof has a long and colourful history. Formerly called Florenhof, Reventlowscher Hof, and Landrathenhof this interesting building complex has experienced additions, demolitions, redevelopments, several different owners, and many name changes in the course of time. The precise origin is not well known – yet a predecessor of the building was mentioned in documents as early as in 1588. Initially, this was an aristocratic residence, but around 1759 industrial development took over the premises. Interestingly – following a brief period as a soap factory - in 1762 the Margarethenhof became an important part of the sugar and rum boom. Known as "Sugar Yard" it belonged to the West India Company, one of the largest companies in the West India trade. In those days, Flensburg rose to fame as Europe’s rum-capital, as West India trade flourishes, and rum and cane sugar were brought in from the Danish Virgin Islands. Finally, from 1842 to 1961, the plant served as an iron foundry, providing for important flourishing as the industrialisation of Flensburg took on its way. At this time the building complex was given its current name, taken from the owner Nikolaus Jepsen's mother-in-law (Margarethe). In the 1970s, the factory-related buildings were demolished, leaving the residential flats. They today, extensively renovated, make up the Margarethenhof housings.